Cedar & Mesquite

Ashe juniper (cedar) removal. How to actually get rid of it.

Cedar suckers back from the root crown if you don't cut deep enough. Here's the real method, the water you'll get back, and what a good job looks like six months later.

6 min read
Cleared North Texas pasture with cedar stumps ground flush in Blackland prairie soil

Why cedar is a different problem

Most land clearing work is just tree work. Cedar (ashe juniper, if you want the real name) is its own category.

Three reasons.

It drinks. A mature ashe juniper pulls about 30 gallons of groundwater a day. Not a typo. On an acre with 20 mature cedars, that’s 600 gallons a day going up into the canopy and out as transpiration. Over a year, that’s the size of a small pond. Ranchers with cedar breaks are pumping a water well against a tree that never gets tired.

It suckers back from the root crown. Ashe juniper doesn’t sprout from the stump like mesquite or oak. It regrows from the root crown, the thickened section right at the soil line. If you cut a cedar at ground level, you’ve left the crown behind, and in eighteen months you have a multi-stemmed cedar bush in the same spot. Homeowners do this accidentally all the time. It’s frustrating.

It’s a heavy allergen. December through February, ashe juniper pollen is the dominant airborne allergen in North Texas. People call it cedar fever. For families who live with it, thinning the cedar near the house changes the winter.

The only method that actually works

Kill a cedar for good, and you do it one of two ways:

Cut below the root crown

The old-school ranch method. A skid steer with a tree shear or a chainsaw cuts the trunk below the root crown, usually three to six inches below the soil line. The cut removes the tissue that would have sprouted. The remaining root mass dies because cedar can’t regenerate from deep root tissue.

Done right, it’s permanent. Done wrong (cut at ground level or just above) and you’ve wasted the trip.

Grind the crown out

Faster for big work. A forestry mulcher or a stump grinder pulverizes the root crown along with everything else. Same outcome: the regenerating tissue is destroyed, the tree is done.

This is what we do on most multi-acre jobs. Mulching gives us the regrowth kill plus a mulch layer on the ground. One pass, one truck, one job.

What not to do

Cutting at ground level with a chainsaw. Makes the lot look cleared. Doesn’t kill the tree. Most of it grows back by the next spring.

Push-and-pile with a dozer. This usually takes the crown with it, because the dozer pushes below the soil line. But “usually” isn’t a guarantee, and you’ve got piles to deal with.

Chemical treatments alone. Sprayed cedars die standing, which is ugly and still in your way. You still have to remove the dead tree. And retreatment is expensive.

What happens after you clear it

Water comes back

This is the big one. Within a single growing season after a serious cedar clearing, stock tanks fill faster, seeps come back, and the pasture grass gets measurably greener in the same rain. You’re not adding water. You’re just not sending it up a cedar anymore.

The grass regrows on its own

Ashe juniper shades the ground out. When you remove it, native grasses that were dormant under the canopy come back without seeding. On pasture work, we usually tell clients to wait a full spring before deciding whether they need to reseed. Most of the time they don’t.

The lot looks empty at first

This is worth warning you about. A cleared cedar break looks bare for the first few months. You’ve been looking at dense evergreen cover your whole life and suddenly it’s gone. The grass hasn’t filled in yet. The hardwoods you didn’t notice before are suddenly visible.

Give it one growing season. By the next fall it looks like the land is supposed to look.

What a good cedar job looks like six months later

  • Grass is greener and taller in the cleared zones than the untouched reference area.
  • Keeper trees (pecan, oak, hackberry) look healthier because they’re not competing for water anymore.
  • Stock tank levels recover from the normal seasonal drop.
  • No new cedar sprouts from the cut zones. Any cedar coming back is seedlings, not stump suckers. Different problem, handled with a single follow-up mulching pass after a few years.

What it costs in DFW

Cedar removal is priced like the rest of our work: on-site, line-item, and honest. Cedar-heavy lots run on the higher end of the land clearing range because the stumps are thick and the crown work takes time. For a real number, we’d need to walk it.

Free on-site estimates

Cedar work is what we do. If you’ve got a cedar break that’s eating your pasture, email us and we’ll come look at it.

Cedar & Mesquite: common questions.

Quick answers to what people ask us next.

Only if you cut it wrong. Ashe juniper doesn't sprout from the trunk like mesquite does. It suckers from the root crown. Cut below the crown and it's done. Cut above and you've got a bush where the tree used to be.
A mature ashe juniper pulls about 30 gallons a day out of the ground. On a 10-acre lot with 200 mature cedars, that's 6,000 gallons of groundwater a day going up into the canopy instead of into your pasture or stock tank.
For ranch and rural property, almost always. You get the water back, the grass comes back, and the allergen load drops. For suburban lots it's less dramatic but still worth it if the cedar is thick enough to shade out everything else.

Got a job in mind?

Free on-site estimates across Dallas and North DFW. Email a few details and we'll come walk the lot.